ORMUS Salt Recipes
I usually fill a bottle, such as a wine bottle, halfway with water. Dissolve as much Dead Sea salts into it as I can (an ORMUS source purported to be high in gold m-state) which is usually about 1/3-1/2 cup, add 1/2 a thing of Welch’s concord grape juice (which is supposedly higher in iridium, not gold), and drizzle in a quarter cup or so of olive oil. Usually after about 1-2 weeks of shaking it periodically the oil produces pleasant m-state effects in the mouth, but the best layer is actually just under the oil, which is slimy and partly chunky.
It works better unrefrigerated, and the extremely high salt content seems to be sufficient for keeping out bacteria. It does have an odd, but not overly unpleasant taste. Often I forget these jars under the sink then come upon them months later. They are usually noticeably improved and stronger than newer batches. Perhaps this relates to alchemical processes wherein possibly the ormes cause meta-ordering of their surroundings over time. The downside is that the oil limits the dosage your body can take, of course.
I have been making oil precipitate since October, using the recipe from Tim. I have used olive oil, grape seed oil and almond oil. I didn’t like the almond oil, it “felt” wrong. I now use a combination of grape seed oil and olive oil. I have tried making this without grape juice and prefer it with grape juice, but I haven’t figured out if its just because it makes it sweet, or if it really makes a difference in effect. I agree with Tim that the oil itself isn’t very potent when taken orally, and the best stuff is the middle layer, which has the most precipitate in it. I’m not sure the product lasts longer because you take less, as this recipe also results in less precipitate.
I’m also making precipitate using the Wet Method, and I think that precipitate isn’t quite as potent as the oil precipitate, but there’s more of it. Just two days ago I did make a new oil batch in a much larger container, I’m also using a combination of Dead Sea salt, Hawaiian red salt and Celtic grey salt, just to see what its like. In his post, Tim stated that the oil limits the amount of the precipitate you can take. I’m not sure what he means by that, either that he finds it harder to take because its in oil (not a big problem for me), or that there’s something about being in the oil that limits absorption? I asked for clarification on this some time ago and never got a response.
I do find however, that just as all ORMUS products are somewhat different and have somewhat different effects, the same holds true for the oil precipitate v. the wet method precipitate. I don’t like one better than the other, they’re just different, I like them both. I think the wet method precipitate effects are somewhat subtler, but its so subjective… In my oil production, I’m shifting focus from the precipitate layer to the oil itself. There’s a lot of oil left over once you’ve separated the precipitate layer. I have found this oil can have profound results when used topically. I gave a friend with severe health problems a massage with this oil and she had 4 really good days following. For myself, I’ve had a real reduction in acute pain from old injuries when applying this oil topically. Others on this list have posted similar good results using different recipes.
Sara, Kingston, WA
This recipe is offered by Anne Beversdorf. Please feel free to copy and distribute. There is absolutely NO recommendation about usage here. This is an experimental product available for research purposes. For more information about ORMUS, see www.subtleenergies.com/ormus
- 2 Stainless steel or Pyrex bowls, to hold at least gallon volume each
- Coffee filters
- Strainer to hold coffee filters (coffee pot top is OK unless aluminum.) Do not use aluminum.
- Squirt bottle with good lid, or dropper bottle
- pH paper that tests up to at least 11 (I’m happy with strips ordered from www.indigo.com )
- Glass jar (spigot at bottom is useful)
- Turkey baster or 50cc syringe (esp. if you don’t have a spigot on the jar)
- Pyrex measuring cup.
- Coarse sea salt such as Celtic salt, Dead Sea salt or Himalayan salt work best.
- Lye (Red Devil Lye is in most groceries in the Drano section). You can also order food grade lye from www.snowdriftfarm.com
- Gallon of Distilled or osmosis filtered water
- White distilled vinegar
Preparation: Do this over the sink, out of the way.
Pour one cup of distilled water in Pyrex measuring cup that’s sitting in the sink. Add two tablespoons of lye powder. Standing back from the sink so fumes don’t get in your eyes, stir powder until it dissolves. Note: The water will get hot. If lye powder contacts your skin or clothes, remove it immediately with water and soap – take off the clothing immediately. The powder will eat through clothing and skin. Place the squirt bottle or dropper bottle in the sink and pour the lye solution into the bottle. If water is still hot, leave the lid loosely placed over the top. You can fasten it later, when the water cools down.
- Pour 4 cups of water in a bowl and dissolve 1 cup of salt in the water. (Different brands of salt have different yields. You can adjust it as you go.)
- Strain salt water through coffee filters into the second bowl. You may need to use many coffee filters, as there could be a lot of “stuff” in sea salt.
- With pH paper ready, start adding dropperfuls (or very small squirts) of lye-water to the salt water, STIRRING CONSTANTLY. (Vary your stir pattern, as the lye-water will tend to concentrate on one section unless you blend it everywhere.)
- Check the pH of the water. You want the pH to reach 10 without going as high as 11. It will rise slowly until it gets to about 9, and then will go faster. When it gets to about 10 it will suddenly rise FAST. If it gets as high as 11, add a few drops of vinegar to bring the pH back down.
Note: The reason for the exact pH reading is that the m-state elements will drop out of the water at just over 10.5. If you go too high, other elements (“Gilchrist Elements”) will drop out of the water, and they are bad for you. So you want the pH to stay under 11. (10.78 to be exact).
- When the correct pH is reached, check several places in the water to make sure it’s evenly distributed.
- Pour water in large jar. Let it settle for at least 4 hours. Overnight is best. A white or grey precipitate will form at the bottom of the jar.
- When 4-12 hours has passed, drain or siphon off the clear water (salt water), and refill the bottle with distilled or good drinking water. (You may keep this water, adding more distilled to it and raising the pH to get more precipitate.) Shake it and let it settle again. This is called “washing the precipitate”.
- Wash the precipitate at least 3 times with clean water, each time shaking it and letting it settle at least 4 hours before repeating.
- After the last wash, pour the “slurry” of grey/white powder and water into a glass jar with a lid and save it for use. Store it away from electric or magnetic fields.
- Since Ormus is strongly affected by intent and by energy fields, it seems to increase its potency if you surround it with high-energy objects. These range from crystals, to photos of beloved teachers or grandmothers, to written intentions of goals, etc.
How to use If you choose to ingest it, start with about a half teaspoon twice a day. If you take too much at the beginning you may go into a “healing crisis” as your body detoxes. It has also been applied directly to the skin to improve scars, age spots, wrinkles, discolorations, etc. Pets and plants love it. (You don’t need to use much on plants to get huge yields. If you use TOO much, yield drops. The ratio, for what it’s worth, is 3 gallons per acre once a season. I’ve also heard one-half cup per five gallons of water.) Flowering plants bloom like mad after receiving just a drop of Ormus in their water. For more information on Ormus, combining Ormus with essential oils, or for astrological insights into personal growth, contact:
Anne Beversdorf Inner Growth Counselor Western and Vedic Astrologer